We didn’t pay them much attention last year, either, being focused on the rest of the yard. Fortunately, we had a warm spell in February and got them both nicely pruned during that period. But the ground beneath has been a mess, and I had spent quite a bit of time pondering what to do to clean it up. Because it is shaded, obviously, I hadn’t given much thought to actually growing anything there. However, about six weeks ago I ran across an idea that I had to investigate further. And it’s applicable to both established trees as well as new plantings. With the way things are going, I figure I’m not the only one who has purchased new fruit trees this year.
A fruit tree guild is basically a mini-ecosystem of plants underneath and around a fruit tree to benefit the fruit tree and increase yields, with each plant filling a specific role. It’s like companion planting taken to a whole new level. What makes this concept so perfect for those seeking to increase their food independence is that a well-built and thriving fruit tree guild reduces the amount of work required to maintain it (eventually), reduces the need for outside inputs of fertilizer and mulch, reduces the need for pesticides, and increases the harvest. Pretty awesome, huh?
When creating a fruit tree guild, you want to involve plants that will fulfill the following six roles (some plants do double duty). As you consider which plants to use, don’t forget to favor choices that also have medicinal uses.
- Suppressor. Suppressors hinder the growth of weeds and/or grass. Consider daffodils, garlic chives, buckwheat, strawberries, mint, red clover, squash, pumpkins, rhubarb, and nasturtiums.
- Attractor. Make sure to attract beneficial insects, especially pollinators. Catnip (catmint) and Russian sage are powerful bee attractors, though I personally would never plant Russian sage near fruit trees or any landscaping that I wanted to keep neat and orderly. I consider it somewhat invasive, but things could be different in your part of the country. Catnip isn’t very well behaved either, but it is smaller and more manageable. Bee balm, salvia, sunflowers, and yarrow (all but salvia are medicinal), and herbs like lavender, coriander, dill, and fennel are other good choices.
- Repeller. Not all of the following specifically repel pests—some are just so aromatic as to confuse them and prevent them from finding the plants they do want to eat. These include common culinary chives, garlic, onions, oregano, sage, thyme, and lemon balm, and nasturtiums (also edible and medicinal!), marigolds, yarrow (also medicinal!), and daffodils.
- Mulcher. Growing your own mulch, like comfrey, saves time and money. And comfrey is a top medicinal herb. Hostas and rhubarb also make good mulch
- Accumulator. Comfrey and borage are top choices for accumulating minerals that are deep in the soil and bringing them up to the surface where the fruit tree can better use them. Chickweed, stinging nettle, sorrel, vetch, and tansy are also good.
- Fixer. Nitrogen fixers fix nitrogen in the soil. Peas, beans, white clover, and lupine are excellent choices.
The concept of fruit tree guilds is relatively new; it came about as some people observed that certain plants naturally group themselves together in the wild. Coupled with scientists’ findings that some plants actually mutually benefit from being close, and throw in some folks who want to increase their yields, and decrease their work, and you get the idea of a fruit tree guild. There aren’t any specific recipes or plans—each yard is unique. We have specific pests, climate, and plant varieties to work with. We’re basically on our own to figure out what works. The above lists provide a starting point.
Keep in mind that you don’t want to include everything on the list—that would be crazy. Just pick one or two to fill each role, and remember some are doing double duty. For example, under our two apple trees, I will put a lot of daffodils (there are still some that need to be transplanted from their original locations) and some nasturtiums to suppress and repel. Catnip is already growing there, and I might transplant some dill for attracting bees. I’ve also got some repeater onions, so I could stick a few of those in as well to help repel. Comfrey is my #1 choice for mulching and accumulating, so I’ll get those seeds going. And the peas and beans are ready to go in the ground as well.
Everything gets planted within the drip line of the tree—the circle around the tree to which the tree roots will eventually extend. With newly planted trees, this circle may need to be gradually moved for best results, so keep that in mind. As with any new planting, be sure to amend the soil well and water deeply until plants are established.
References:
https://www.tenthacrefarm.com/how-to-build-a-fruit-tree-guild/
https://www.starkbros.com/growing-guide/article/how-to-build-a-fruit-tree-guild
https://lakesidecommunitygarden.org/designing-a-fruit-tree-guild/
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/organic/how-to-plant-tree-guild.htm
https://www.growingwithnature.org/design-a-fruit-tree-guild/
13 june 2024