Thursday, June 30, 2022

Proper Prepper Pepper Propagating, or How to Propagate Peppers from Cuttings

Peppers—all kinds—are short-lived perennials which most of us grow as annuals because they are extremely tender.  People in tropical climates can keep them going for years. 

In an effort to save some time and effort for the following spring, and maybe even have some fresh peppers during the winter, I dug up a few of my pepper plants last fall before the first frost and brought them inside. 

It was an epic fail.

First off, the pepper plants didn’t really like having their roots chopped off like that and being stuck in a container inside.  They expressed no gratitude for the fact that I had saved them from imminent death.

Then, as if to spite me, they brought all these tiny bugs, fungus gnats is my guess, with them.  Little flying black bugs everywhere for months. 

I’m not going to repeat that mistake this year.

But still, getting a jump on starting peppers for next spring seems like a good idea.  And peppers take forever to start from seed.  So this year I’m going to try propagating them from cuttings.  And while I really only like to write about topics I have personal experience with, I’m making an exception here.  I hope the internet is still up in September/October when I make these cuttings and start propagating, but I’m not counting on it. And even if the grid is still up in the fall, it may not be next spring when I would report the results.

So I checked out several sources for information on how to propagate peppers. 

Pepper propagating is a whole lot like tomato propagating; it just takes a whole lot longer.  And because the success rate is significantly lower, you need to start with a lot more cuttings. 

The advantage of propagating peppers this way—basically cloning—is that you get an exact genetic copy of the parent.  There is no genetic variation, unlike the risk you take when starting plants from seeds.  There’s no chance that the seed you saved came from a jalapeno that was also pollinated by bees that recently visited a bell pepper.  Another is that you avoid the risk of bringing in pests and the hassle of overwintering pepper plants inside during the winter.  This method also works great for those with hydroponics.

To propagate your own peppers:

  • Take a jar of clean room-temperature filtered water (if your tap water is chlorinated, let it air out for a day before making your cuttings) out to the garden.
  • Select the branches for cuttings.  Choose only young, green, actively growing branches with several nodes (places where new branches will develop once the cutting is established), about 3-5 inches long.  Avoid woody, stiff, thick branches. (Note that some say woody branches are better.)  The top of the plant is the best place to locate medium sized branches that are still soft and green.
  • Using a razor blade or very sharp pruning shears, make a diagonal cut at the base of the branch. (Some sources say that making the cut directly beneath a node increases the chances for successful rooting.) Pinching or using dull scissors may damage the plant tissue and hinder water uptake.  A diagonal cut maximizes the surface area for taking in water and growing new roots.
  • Remove all of the fruit and flowers, and all the lower leaves that are above the first two nodes from the bottom.  Keep 3-5 upper leaves on the branch.  We want all the energy directed toward producing new roots.
  • Use rooting hormone if you have it to increase your chances of success.  Simply dip the cut end in the rooting hormone powder.
  • Submerge the cut end in water.
  • Place the cuttings in a bright room with indirect light.  Avoid direct sunlight or grow lights. 
  • Watch for dried leaves.  If leaves dry out, remove them, but be sure to leave some foliage.
  • Change water at least weekly.  Do not just top off the water as this may encourage the growth of mold and algae.
  • Once there are roots 1-2 inches long, in about a month or so, transplant into soil. 

Links to related posts:

How to Propagate Tomato Plants from Cuttings

References:

https://peppergeek.com/propagating-pepper-plant-cuttings/

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/pepper/growing-peppers-from-cuttings.htm

https://growingthehomegarden.com/propagating-peppers-through-cuttings/

https://spicytrio.com/how-to-grow-pepper-plants-from-cuttings-cloning-tips/

https://www.bountifulgardener.com/growing-chili-peppers-from-cuttings/

 

Wednesday, June 29, 2022

Vital Signs--What Is Normal?

Most every time you visit the doctor, a nurse checks your vital signs.  When a patient is in the hospital, nurses monitor vital signs frequently, assuming there isn't a machine hooked up to do it for them.  Vital signs not only provide information about the current condition of a patient, but they also provide baseline information for the doctor when the patient is feeling well so that the doctor can see more easily what is off when a patient does not feel well.

Normal vital signs vary by age, as well as by gender and overall health.  This is one reason why maintaining accurate health records is critical for care providers; it helps physicians determine what is normal for any given patient and how to interpret any changes.



Pulse
Respiration Rate
Systolic Blood Pressure
Newborn
120-180
40-50
60-80
1-2 years
90-120
25-30
90-105
3-10 years
80-100
20-30
100-110
10+ years
<80
<20
100-120









The chart above provides normal ranges of the vital signs of pulse, respiration, and blood pressure for newborns through adults.  The two other vital signs, temperature and oxygen saturation, do not vary by age.  A temperature of 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit is considered normal.  Anything over 100.4 is a fever, and anything below 96.8 is considered hypothermia.  Any temperature over 103 degrees suggests a serious infection, but remember, it's not a perfect correlation.  

While armpit temperature measurements were used for some time, they are not very accurate.  Oral and rectal measurements are much more reliable.  Be sure to have at least one of each.  Glass thermometers are more accurate.  Yeah, you've got to shake them down and it takes a few minutes to get the reading, but having an accurate reading is critical.  Those digital thermometers can vary quite a bit, so they're not my favorite.  

Another vital sign is the oxygen level in the blood.  Measured with a pulse oximeter, it provides information on how well gas exchange in the lungs is proceeding.  Normal is above 95%.  Anything below 94% indicates a need for supplemental oxygen or significant respiratory disease.  

The sicker a patient is, the more the vital signs will deviate from normal.  There are several early warning score options; they are all pretty similar.  They are useful for determining trends in patients, whether the patient is getting worse or better.  It's a tool to use in conjunction with other observations. 

The NHS Early Warning Score (NEWS) comes to us from the United Kingdom.  The system assigns a point value to abnormal vital signs.  The point total from all signs gives an indication of how sick a patient is.
 


0-4 points
The patient is not likely to be seriously ill at the moment.
5-7 points, or a single vital sign of three points 
The patient may be quite ill.  Monitor closely.
>7 points
The patient is seriously ill and needs licensed medical care.



NHS Early Warning Score

3
2
1
0
1
2
3
Temperature
<95

95.1-96.8
96.9-100.4
100.5-102.2
>102.3

Respiration rate
<8

9-11
12-20

21-24
>25
Pulse
<40

41-50
51-90
91-110
111-130
>131
Oxygen saturation
<91
92-93
94-95
>96


>220
Systolic blood pressure
<90
91-100
101-110
111-219



Consciousness level (AVPU)



A


V, P, or U












Links to related posts:
Assessing a Patient
Taking and Giving a Patient History  

For further information:
Survival and Austere Medicine, 3rd Edition, pp 68-71
https://www.mdcalc.com/national-early-warning-score-news

23 june 2020