Yes, being able to test vegetable seeds for germination is important. But it's not difficult. It doesn't require special supplies. It takes no time to learn. And the reason we all need to know how to do this is that the day will come when we won't be able to just throw away the seeds we didn't use in the garden that year like the seed producers advise. They'll need to be saved for the next year. Those who prepare for long-term collapse rather than short-term disruptions already recognize this.
For our ancestors who were totally self-reliant, because there was no government coming to bail them out of their laziness and stupid choices, or perhaps just because they possessed some self-respect, the "starving time" each year was the spring. If they hadn't stored enough food, spring was when things got dicey. They needed to get planting going as soon as possible. Of course, they were also looking forward to the early vegetables, just as a change of pace, but they also needed the food. They could not risk planting seeds that would be slow to germinate or not sprout at all. Even a few days could make a significant difference.
Old seed just won't germinate at all. Improperly stored seed may not work, either. Did the seed get a little too much moisture and start rotting? Was the temperature too hot? Was the packet left in the sun, even for a few minutes, or did it come from an outdoor garden center where the air temperature wasn't controlled? Buying from any of the big box stores can be a bit risky. But the nursery department managers don't worry about it. Because what happens when a gardener's seed doesn't sprout? Who does the gardener typically blame? He usually blames himself, maybe the birds, then the seed itself. Gardeners almost never blame the store for not storing the seed properly. And yet, the store personnel and practices are the most likely culprits.
Along the same lines, if you order your vegetable seeds online, you need to order them when the temperatures are cool. You don't want your precious seeds sitting in a hot mail truck or mailbox. The delivery guy has more on his mind than keeping your seeds cool. Especially now.
A seed germination test indicates the percentage of seeds that will germinate when planted in the ground. The percent of seeds that were perfectly prepared and stored that will germinate varies widely from one vegetable to the next. The federal government, through the Department of Agriculture, has set the minimum percent germination standards. The numbers vary from fifty percent for okra to eighty percent for cucumbers, watermelon, lettuce, and peas. You need to know these numbers before planting. People don't want to waste time planting seeds that won't produce a crop. And if your seeds don't germinate, you need to know whether the problem lies with the seed, or with the guy planting the seed. That way, necessary adjustments can be made.
Fortunately, we have a few items at our disposal to make seed germination tests much easier than what our ancestors could do. And you likely have what you need in your kitchen right now. You'll need a paper towel, a reclosable plastic baggie, and the seeds to be tested. Here's how:
- Dampen the paper towel. It should be wet, but not dripping.
- Put ten seeds on the paper towel.
- Put the seeds in the baggie and close it.
- Place the baggie on top of the refrigerator, with the seeds down.
- In a few days, you should see sprouts, hopefully at least seven out of ten.
- Be sure to allow sufficient time for all the seeds to germinate.
- Multiply the number of sprouts by ten to get your germination percentage.
- If it's close to the minimum standard, you're good to go.
But what if only 40% germinate? That's not a big deal when testing okra, whose minimum for good seed is fifty percent, but what if it's watermelon? Can you just plant the seeds closer together? Actually, you shouldn't unless you have no other alternative. Such a low germination rate suggests that the seed is really old. Even if it germinates, it will be slower to germinate, slower to grow, and produce less food. You'll be putting in more effort for less return.
Keep in mind that some seeds may benefit from a pretreatment of some sort--stratification (a cold period), soaking, or scarification (nicking the seed). Celery needs to have a 10-15 degree temperature difference from morning to evening. Large seeds will germinate more quickly if they are scarified. For quick scarification of many seeds, line the inside of a canning jar with some sandpaper. Add the seeds, put the lid on, and shake for one minute.
The following chart provides essential information in one easy-to-read graphic.
Vegetable
|
Minimum percent germination per federal standards
|
Germination temperatures
|
Days to germination in ideal conditions
|
Years viable
|
Seeds per ounce
|
Min
|
Ideal
|
Max
|
Asparagus
|
60
|
50
|
75
|
90
|
10
|
3
|
700
|
Beans, green
|
75
|
60
|
85
|
95
|
6
|
3
|
110
|
Beets
|
65
|
40
|
85
|
95
|
4
|
4
|
1600
|
Broccoli
|
75
|
|
85
|
|
4
|
5
|
9000
|
Cabbage
|
75
|
40
|
80
|
100
|
4
|
5
|
8500
|
Cantaloupe
|
75
|
60
|
90
|
100
|
4
|
5
|
1200
|
Carrot
|
55
|
40
|
80
|
95
|
6
|
3
|
23000
|
Cauliflower
|
75
|
40
|
80
|
100
|
5
|
5
|
9000
|
Celery
|
55
|
40
|
70
|
85
|
7
|
5
|
70000
|
Chinese cabbage
|
75
|
|
80
|
|
4
|
5
|
18000
|
Cucumber
|
80
|
60
|
95
|
105
|
3
|
5
|
1100
|
Eggplant
|
60
|
60
|
85
|
95
|
6
|
5
|
6000
|
Kale
|
75
|
|
80
|
|
4
|
5
|
9500
|
Lettuce
|
80
|
35
|
75
|
85
|
3
|
5
|
25000
|
Onion
|
70
|
35
|
75
|
95
|
6
|
1-2
|
9000
|
Parsnip
|
60
|
35
|
65
|
85
|
14
|
1-2
|
12000
|
Pea
|
80
|
40
|
75
|
85
|
6
|
3
|
75
|
Pepper
|
55
|
60
|
85
|
95
|
8
|
4
|
4500
|
Pumpkin
|
75
|
60
|
95
|
100
|
4
|
4
|
200
|
Radish
|
75
|
40
|
85
|
95
|
4
|
5
|
3000
|
Rutabaga
|
75
|
|
80
|
|
|
5
|
12000
|
Spinach
|
60
|
35
|
70
|
85
|
5
|
5
|
2800
|
Squash
|
75
|
60
|
95
|
100
|
4
|
5
|
100-300
|
Sweetcorn
|
75
|
50
|
95
|
105
|
3
|
1-2
|
120-180
|
Swiss chard
|
65
|
40
|
85
|
95
|
4
|
1-2
|
1500
|
Tomato
|
75
|
50
|
85
|
95
|
6
|
4
|
11000
|
Turnip
|
80
|
40
|
85
|
105
|
3
|
5
|
14000
|
Watermelon
|
80
|
60
|
95
|
105
|
4
|
5
|
200-300
|
The "years viable" is true only when seeds are stored cool, dry, and dark. And that is easier to do with electricity. Getting that kind of viability if you live in a hot, humid area without the ability to maintain seeds cool and dry is going to be difficult. If you can, learn how to save seeds from your own garden each year.
For further reading:
https://www.southernexposure.com/how-to-test-germination/
https://www.seedman.com/veggerm.htm
http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/164220.pdf
3.2.23
