Options for Getting the Earliest Possible Crops

I realize it’s only February.  I shouldn’t even be thinking about working in the yard here and getting the garden started.  Even if some kind of miracle were to occur and our temperatures became much warmer, I just don’t have enough sunlight to grow anything in the yard until mid-March at the earliest.  Something about being on the slope of a north-facing mountain. 

So when I finally do have enough sun, I’ve got to make the most of it.  And with the supply chain disruptions and all the uncertainty in our world right now, this year’s garden has to be more productive than ever.  Fortunately, we have several measures we can take to get the earliest crops possible. 

First and foremost for many is starting seeds indoors.  Grow lights are a must for starting vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and cole crops.  I started onions last month, and cabbage and broccoli last week, as well as a couple of flats of hardy annuals.  A sunny window really doesn’t cut it. 

The other huge obstacle to getting an early start on the garden is the low temperatures.  Unfortunately, the most desirable crops are the most tender and susceptible to freezing temperatures. 

Historically, greenhouses were the only way to deal with that problem.  Due to their size and cost, only the wealthy could afford them.  Less expensive hoop houses are frequently used by those growing for the farmer’s market, but they’re still out of range for many of us, whether it’s due to cost or space availability.  Fortunately however, for us 99%ers, we have more economical options. 

Row covers made from lightweight synthetic fabric keep the soil and plants below up to 20 degrees warmer.  To do their job as intended, they must be put in place 5-7 days before planting to allow time for the soil to warm.  Otherwise, you risk killing the seeds and plants before they ever get started.  Because they are lightweight, they don’t impede the seedlings’ growth in any way.

Tunnels are the next step up from row covers.  They feature arched supports placed every few feet to keep the plastic or fabric above plants, allowing plants to grow larger while still being protected from the elements.  They retain moisture and heat particularly well and even help keep the bugs out.  Unlike hoop houses, they can be easily removed from the garden when temperatures are consistently warm.

Wall o’ waters, (season starters, Kozy Coats, etc.) consist of about a dozen water filled channels that converge at the top to form a teepee around tender, tall plants like tomatoes and peppers.  They let me plant a full 6-8 weeks earlier than I otherwise could, making a huge difference in the amount of food we can harvest each year.  They are perfect for temporary protection and easily worked into edible landscapes.  The downside to these season starters is that if a channel gets punctured, the water drains and no longer insulates the plant.  Some vendors carry replacement channels, little tubes made of the same material that can be dropped inside a damaged channel and then filled with water.  I got mine at Territorial Seed and highly recommend picking some up when you see them. 

Combining two of these methods—seed starting indoors and planting out early under some kind of protection—will shorten the period until you begin harvesting up to several weeks. 

Unfortunately, some seeds shouldn’t be started indoors.  They just produce better and faster if they are spared from transplant shock.  This is particularly true of the squash and melon family.  My favorite way to jump start these seeds is to pre-sprout them in damp paper towels. 

• Soak a triple thickness of paper towel with lukewarm water.
• Squeeze out the water until the towel is just damp.
• Place the seeds on it and cover with a single layer of damp paper towel.
• Roll up loosely and place in a plastic bag, leaving the bag open.
• Place it in a warm area, like on top of the refrigerator.
• Starting on day 3, check the seeds every day for rootlets.
• When the seeds start showing roots or leaves, plant outdoors, 1 seed per hill.

As a bonus, this method significantly saves on seed costs, since instead of planting 3-5 seeds per hill and then removing all but one, only viable seeds are planted.  And it gives you a crop 7-10 days earlier.